JOURNEY THROUGH
LABRADOR
by Bernie Howgate ( Chapter 11 ) JULY 26th Dear Mum, Having a marvellous time... There is is one thing worse than being
caught out in a storm and that is being storm bound with
time on your hands and nothing to fill them with.. Now, if I
was travelling with a woman there'd be no problem, but on
your own it can be as boring as hell. Everything irritates
you. Those loons that only last night called out in romantic
tones now chattered incessantly and play on my nerves. You
cannot find that lone mosquito in your tent and just when
you got warm and dry, you have to go out and take a leak! It
all adds up to frustration. Even your thoughts turn to all
those little things that now get blown completely out of
proportion. My radio is dead and I can't find the
spare batteries. That super sophisticated stove I bought in
Toronto that can burn everything from white gas to rocket
fuel is empty, and my tobacco, my one and only vice on this
trip, is running out. I did make a lame attempt to search for
dry wood, but this was cut short when, to my horror, my tent
flew. Lighting a fire is one thing, having one's tent
air-lifted to Iceland like a balloon is quite another. Even
the tide was laughing at me, for no sooner had I secured the
tent when I noticed my kayak drifting out to sea. At times
like this you want to cry. Nothing seems to go right. Sleep
holds no escape, and even those chocolate biscuits I'd been
saving for over a month for just such an occasion had as
much snap in them as a wet sponge. Noon brought with it a window of light
and a sudden surge in temperature. The flowers bloomed,
waters calmed and the air was full of sent, but to venture
out meant to run the gauntlet of black flies. They got
everywhere. They got in your ears, up your nose and down
your throat and just to make matters worse, I'd left my tent
open and when I returned, I was bushwhacked by a swarm of
mosquitoes. It is said you can hit a black fly with a
baseball bat and it will come back for more, they don't so
much bite as mug you. Well let me tell you something. I've
travelled all over Canada. I've worked in Grande Prairie in
Alberta, Whitehorse in the Yukon, Inuvik in the NWT, Flin
Flon in Manitoba and Timmins in northern Ontario. I've
bitten, stung, battered and bruised by every species of
winged creature known to man, but nothing comes close to the
Labrador mosquito when its on an eating frenzy between
storms. Here they are that big they arm wrestle with you and
the noise they make at night would make the chain saw
massacre sound like a kiddies nursery rhyme. That window of light proved to be the
last straw, for no sooner had I taken down the tent when it
when it closed again, the sky blackened, the wind blew and
the rain sheeted down. Again, I had to put up the tent. When
it rains, it pours. There was nothing to do, but to grin and
bare it and hope that CBC out of Goose Bay, would bring me
better news tomorrow. Oh yes, did I forget to tell you, I found
my spare batteries. At least now I have my music.

